To make hers larger than the red one in the previous post, I changed the pattern considerably so I don't think I am infringing on the authors pattern because of the changes so here is how I did it.
The basics are as follows: To make a flat circle -
chain 4, join the last chain to the first chain to form a circle.
Row 1: Chain 3, counts as first treble. 11 tr into the centre to create a circle of 12 tr.
Row 2: Ch 3, 1 tr into the same stitch, 2 tr into every ch = 24 tr.
Row 3: Ch 3, *1 tr into the next stitch, 2 tr into the next stitch rpt from * to end.
Row 4: Ch 3, *1 tr into the next 2 stitches , 2 tr into the next stitch rpt from * to end.
Carry on increasing the number of single stitches between the 2 tr into 1 stitch until you have 7 single trs between 2 tr into 1 stitch. This should be row 8.
This is a standard flat circle pattern used for many different objects from bags, pot holders and hats to mats and simple doilies. Lucy from Attic 24 has a good step by step flat circle tutorial, you'll find her site in the sidebar to the right.
When you have 8 rows as above:
Row 9: Ch 3, tr into each stitch to the end.
Row 10 & 11 As per Row 9 .
so that is 3 rows of plain trebles no increases.
Row 12: (This is where you start a standard decrease click to see how) Ch 3, 1 tr into each stitch 7 times. Then tr decrease into the next two stitches to turn two into one. The result will be an upside down V
Row 13: Ch 3, 1 tr into each stitch 6 times then tr decrease into next two stitches as above.
Rows 14-18: SC into each stitch join at the beginning with a slip stitch OR if you prefer, keep going to crochet in a spiral and avoid a seam on the band which is what I did, that part is at your discretion.
Row 19: Crab Stitch to end. Tie off and weave or sew in your ends.
Note crab stitch gives a pretty edge but it's kind of fiddly at first, it's almost backward sc. Here is a video tutorial that will help.
The crab stitch also firms up the edge slightly.
If you prefer a small picot edging would look pretty too.
I did this in a solid colour but there is no reason why you can't do stripes or blocks of colour. It's entirely up to you. The hat can be worn in a variety of ways, as above the WG has it like a beret but you can pull the front forward to form a peak like a cheese cutter cap or wear it further back with hair tucked into it kind of like a snood. The WG is well pleased with hers.
This hat fits me too. For a larger head, I am guessing you should add another row of increase as required and the decrease rows should be adjusted accordingly e.g. 8 tr between incr then 8 tr between decr. I haven't tried it out. Or you could try a larger hook for a looser stitch.
For my next quick project, before I get back to my squares, I am making a V stitch scarf for P, my niece who arrived at lunch time from Tauranga to stay for the holidays.
In real life it's more a reddish purple, almost a raspberry colour and it will look fantastic on P with her dark hair and peaches and cream complexion.
The V stitch looks pretty good with this wool. I wanted a stitch that would use the yarn to best advantage but still be warm and cosy.
I found the pattern on Ravelry it's the Rosey-Posey Scarf Pattern.
The yarn helps the stitches look nice and defined although it is a little uneven in thickness some bits being thicker and others thinner as you crochet through the ball.
I am using a 5mm hook. Even though this is basically a DK wool, I felt that a smaller hook would make the felted wool quite thick and solid feeling, too stiff for a nice scarf. I could of course be wrong.